Category Archives: Pure Permaculture

Permaculture 102 – Permaculture Design Part 3: The Client Interview Sheet – Part 2.

At last we come back to our BIG adventure…. bravely attempting to document (me) and stay awake through (you) the nitty gritty of the Client Interview aspect of the Permaculture Design Process – believe me, it is far more exciting in person and when we get to planning our trip to site, you’ll be on the edge of your seat!

We’ve already gone through (a) the Permaculture Ethics and Principles; (b) the layout of the property – have an aerial diagram and some initial interpretations; (c) performed an assessment of the impact of nature on the block (the Sun’s mainly, but also wind, water, fire and others) and (d) finally we started a ramble through the client questionnaire and the reasoning behind the specific questions.  And it was there on Christmas Eve, with baited breath, I left you all …. mid way through the questionnaire as preparation for Santa’s arrival could no longer be put off.  And so it is only fitting that, more than 3 months later, as we bask in the cooler weather of an alternate super long weekend, we head back to pick up the proverbial design ball and run with it….


BUT FIRST A QUICK NEWS UPDATE:

1) April 10th – Transition Town Stirling is having a Movie night – the reason I mention it, is because I’ve organised for it to be “Dirt, The Movie!”. Not so much an education on what soil is, but more the opportunity to see some famous soil names/faces and to follow the journey of how we treat soil and what hope there is for the future. For info on the Movie Night head HERE, for some information on the Movie itself head HERE.

2) May – Please note that I will be a little quiet in May as I will be helping with a Permaculture Design Course (head HERE for information), but that just means I need to do lots of blogging in April to make up for it!


 

Permaculture 102 – Step 3B – The Client Interview Sheet Continued

A little recap…

(a) What is the aim of this step:

This step gives us the first look at the other major natural force in the garden – the GARDENER.Late Jan 2015 before refresh small 2

Having talked all about the importance of Sun in an urban design and Water in a rural design, gauging this particular force trumps all.  It is perhaps the most critical element in the planning of the garden, primarily to allow us to facilitate the work performed by the gardener into being a supportive force for nature’s evolution in the space.  The aim of this step is to trigger the thoughts of the client on items they might not have considered in their wants / needs and to highlight future discussion topics in order to get the most out of the site visit.

In this step we’ll continue to walk through the remaining questions and provide a little background as to the reasoning behind each query.

Its critical throughout this step to keep in mind the Permaculture Principles – both with respect to ourselves and to the client.

(b) What you need to start this step:

  1. The questionnaire returned by the client (or completed by yourself with your “owner’s hat on” if it is your garden we are talking about).
  2. The diagram from Step 1 – either on a computer, printed out, self drawn or what ever works for you to refer to as you read through the questionnaire.
  3. Some pencils/pens/textas (or virtual options if you are working on a computer) of different colours.
  4. Empathy – Your clients (and indeed us at this point – but just you wait…) will have varying degrees of understanding of what they want and need.  They are often are a little embarrassed about how much (or little) they know and that their expectations must be a mile off what is possible.  Psychology 101 – The more comfortable people are, the more they will talk (even off-topic discussion are sometimes helpful) and the more information you will gain into setting up a system that will compliment the owner and be capable of long term success.

(c) What you’ve got when you finish this step:

By the end we’ll have a good feel to the Client’s hopes for the location and know a little about the opportunities and challenges of the site and its (mental and physical) climate.  All set to pack our kit bag, have a last minute soil resuscitation refresh and then head to site.

HOW TO GET FROM (b) TO (c):

Okay, completed questionnaire in one hand, diagram from Step 1 in front of us and pencil in the other hand.  Bear in mind that when you go to site, it is recommended that you take a copy of the completed (if available and possibly with “notes to self”) plus a blank questionnaire so as to prompt discussion and fill in your own assessment of the answers from the discussions held.  Let’s step through typical questionnaire…. if you want to view it in its native form as we use it, head to the TP Website – Free Notes Section – Site Design and Client Interview Checklist.


We’ve been through:Client Interview

A. The Formalities

1. The Client – Already covered.

Including: 1.1 Client’s understanding of Permaculture Design; 1.2 Occupancy (Years to date / Future Plans); 1.3 Number of People on Site; 1.4 Age (s); 1.5 Occupation (s); 1.6 Eating Habits; 1.7 Likes, dislikes and allergies; 1.8 Routine Habits; 1.9 Lifestyle – Current and Desired; 1.10 Time to Spend Working Onsite – Current and Future; 1.11 Budget for Design / Site Works; 1.12 Skills (Building / Gardening / Craft); and 1.13 Disabilities.

 2. The Client’s Wants and Needs

2.1 Overall Vision for the Site:

The answer to this question might be general (supply veggies for the family) or specific (pond here, chook run there); expansive (full yard, every tree itemised) or limited (small patch off the left); childhood memories (Grandma’s fresh grapes) or ideas of a better future (I want my kids to eat real foods); in line with Permaculture principles or not.

This is a great question to open in Section 2 with.  We have talked all about the client (or us, as the case may be) as a person/family in Section 1 in a practical sense, but now we are inviting the weird and wonderful.  We get to see their tentative plan before the thoughts get boxed into priorities, needs and practicalities.

1 New Guinea Bean SMALL 2 (Large)

The client gets an opportunity to think about what they want and what they wished they had. It also invites discussion between family members who might not be able to attend the meeting. You’ll remember we talked about “all the bits in a design (elements) and how their interaction with one another needs to be considered – so the whole is greater than the sum of its parts (system)”  The family must be considered as elements within the garden and the garden designed to ensure that both benefit from the relationship.  With a little questioning, designs can be developed with features to work towards ongoing interest of all members. Having buy-in to the overall vision provides a degree of ownership and responsibility – valuing the “stakeholders” (the investors – $$$ and time; the consumers – at the table; and the employees!)

Whether they write a saga or nothing, there is a lot for us and them to learn about their ideas and that of their partner/flatmate/family – documented or discussed.

With our site map in hand and with an idea of the client’s vision, we can get an insight into our client and their concepts relative to their location and space.  For example, if they have only a small courtyard and yet have visions of a pond, chook run and providing veggies for the family, either you need to do some early-intervention expectation management or some pretty snazzy designing! Or if they have small plans for a significant space, then perhaps attending some free garden tours might help open their eyes to the huge possibilities.

If you’re doing your own design, here is where you look to your memories of Grandma’s back yard, or the way your Mum’s kitchen smelt when you were a child; you think of the fruit that you get excited about as the price drops when it comes into season; that weird looking fruit you saw when on holiday in exotic climes (I bet I’m the only one that thought it was “exotic climbs”….  thinking of my years trekking Himilayas! I wish. Grammar 101 lessons required for me.); the berries you loved, but now fear buying as the only locally purchasable option is imported; the lemon delicious pudding you wow’d your guests with at the last dinner party, but the neighbour who gave you the lemons is selling their place….et cetera, et cetera, et cetera. Google comes in handy if your exposure to producting gardening is limited – there are some great websites for edible plants which will step you away from the apple, orange, banana norms – not that there is anything wrong with them!  Let your mind wander and see what you’d love to have – even if its silly for the space or climate, there may be other, similar options or putting it in a wicking barrel rather than in the ground.  We’ll figure it’s practicalities (or lack there of) out later, for now, dare to dream.

african cucumber seeds barrels as ponds smaller Front Garden Final 5 smaller

Think outside the plant field too – ponds, amphibians, or perhaps insects are your thing

giant-long-legged-katydids Pattern 1  frog

(Katidid Photo Reference – Giant Long-Legged Katydids photo by Houston Museum of Natural Science)

 

2.2 Prioritise Goals

Now we start to guide the client through the process of apply the “boxes” – what is most important to them? What should be integrated as a priority and what might need to be discussed early to manage expectations.

Although, of course, at the top of every priority list should be “prepare the soil” as each item in the list of goals can generally be traced back to that.  Our (The Designer’s) list may not necessary be the same as the client’s (even if this is us as we look to design our own space), but it should incorporate some of the Client’s top goals early on or at least a plan to get there….. in order to put the YIELD in “Obtain the Yield”, but we’ll discuss that a little later.

Alternately if the top goal is impractical in the immediate context, then a little psychology needs to be employed to bring the client around to that understanding.  In no way am I saying that we have a one size fits all list of priorities and, as designers, we talk the clients into alignment with this list.  As in every service provision situation, the Client is always right….. excepts when that means setting them up for failure and bad experiences which will limit their journey.  For example – and my pet hate (excuse the pun) – if Chickens or rabbits or similar are at the top of the priority list, but the client will be away for extended periods (holidays, FIFO, sick relatives elsewhere).  Then consideration needs to be given to the benefits versus system self-sufficiency versus neglect of each aspect of the design.  If there is not a fabulous neighbour (paid in eggs!) or a like minded friend/relative close by, then chances are this system will fail for both the chickens and the owner.  This may need to be teased out in conversations and the rearrangements of priorities be facilitated during the meeting.  Some introduced garden life requires far less attention than others, perhaps there is a better suiting alternative.  Existing pets also need to be considered, but necessarily to the exclusion of….. as “free range” chooks may or may not mix well with a highly excited fox terrier or an overly affectionate rottweiler.

 

Chiliakyote size sm2.3 Short and Long Range Priorities

We get an idea of urgency – too often a client wants a “landscape” now that will last, which is not part of the evolution that occurs within a Permaculture Designed space.  Taking the client back to a fundamental education of Permaculture may be required to adjust the expectation or to determine that Permaculture might not meet their current needs.  Designs are typically delivered with stages, and an evolution of the client with the space that comes from understanding the reasoning of element placement is critical in the design.

Again, this response indicates what expectation management is required and what attention to “Permaculture Principle Number 3 – Obtain a Yield”

 

(As an aside, Permaculture may not be for everyone and it would be a shame turning a person off producing their own food by trying to impose certain principles.  Some folks like neat rows and segregation of crops which has its own pluses and minuses, but will not fit within a natural pest control ambition and hence not normally considered under the banner of Permaculture.  Similarly Organic gardening has its own ethics which causes its practice to work within a different set of constraints and management techniques.  Don’t be afraid to consider declining or deferring the client to alternate educators.  It may be a lose/lose situation and better to encourage them down an alternate path than have them head back to no knowledge or care of their food’s origin.)

 

2.4 Prioritise Concerns (Spouse, Rainfall, Soil, Short Term Residence etc..)

This is the “cheat of all cheats” when it comes to an effective design….. if you can solve one of your clients concerns, you’ll have them onside and invested in the process!

At the risk of giving away a trade secret (again), a key saying associated with “Permaculture Principle Number 1 – Observe and Interact” is “the problem is the solution“. Things are not always the way they appear, the negative aspect we see can be coupled with a compensating positive or actually be harnessed in a way to make it a positive feature for the existing system.  Weeds are a prime example – many seek to eradicate them, when an alternate view can see them as nature covering bare soil (to limit temp fluctuations, to shelter micro-colonies), preparing the soil for less hardy species (by drawing nutrients to the topsoil as they perish, compost and replace themselves), a source of high nutrition in salad (and for livestock) and often the most water wise kick start to a barren landscape.  Similarly a flooding issue might be rectified by reducing the hydrophobic (water run off) nature of the soil by long term amendment of the soil or controlled diversion – the water at scarcer times is better utilised by the plants, the flooding is averted and your client is (or you are) stoked!

Its likely these concerns have cropped up in questions previously, but as mentioned before, by phrasing the questions differently either the client can elect not to answer all questions, or their thoughts get stimulated and you get another angle on the problem….. perhaps getting a little closer to their perceived source of the problem.  After all they are on site observing for far longer than we’ll have the opportunity to – learn from this, even though your interpretation may differ from theirs.

 

2.5 Specify Wants and Needs

Again we get insight into the client/family and their knowledge about both themselves and their space. This query provides further information associated with Question 2.1 – splitting the dream into wants and needs.  Additionally it should be noted that sometimes, but not always, the needs are the top priority identified in Question 2.2.  See how the picture starts to evolve.

However your client might NEED fresh garden greens all year round, but as a top priority to achieve this you must ensure that your soil can retain moisture and nutrients otherwise in summer you’ll find yourself in trouble.  To have fresh greens all year round, there may need to be an adaption of palate and an openness to trying new plants for producing iceberg lettuce all year round is a hugely labour intensive effort.  (Perhaps the next fad diet – eat only what you grow….. you’ll soon discover the work to nutrition ratio of each item of food! Some don’t supply you with the energy to reach the back door carrying them! You heard it first here – The Soil Hugger’s Diet.)

On the other hand a pond might be documented as a WANT, but when you’re struggling to get pollinators into your garden to produce your fruit (or pests munch your greens before the leaves even open) as you live in “triplex-ville”, you’ll discover the necessity of water sources where there is a balance between a drink for predators/pollinators; below surface predators to minimise mosquito population growth (infact attracting the mozzies to lay here can reduce your total mozzie population!); and plants to feed those below surface predators. Depending on your location you may NEED a pond.

 

2.6 Desired Level of Food Self Reliance

This is a thought provoking question and is very dependent on the area, the client’s (and client’s family’s) interaction with the garden, and the client’s (and client’s family’s) diet.  Are we aiming for a self sustaining productive garden aimed at long term self sufficiency with sporadic grazing or are we looking for a high yield all year around?

When cross referencing this query with the Eating Habits is section 1, we get a good feel for the types and quantities of products that the client expects at this stage. And when looking at short and long range priorities we can identify what some areas of the garden will need to achieve.

PFAFIf high level of self reliance is required and we need all year round production, then  PFAF (http://www.pfaf.org/user/Default.aspx)- is a handy website to learn about seasonal (you’ll need to adjust to Perth!) plants and their uses, growing conditions and interesting quirks…..  You’ll see it has been one of my inputs for investigations.  As always with internet information, do your research before acting on any single source of information (me included!).

 

 

 

 

 

 3. Site Overview – we’ll be a little brief as some aspects we have covered already or it is just as a Client thought-trigger.

3.1 Property Size

Good for confirming the scale we have from Intramaps and the clients understanding of the space they are working with.  In this query the focus is on the whole block, which sometimes starts the client considering the front of the house and down the sides as well as the obvious just outside the back door plots.

3.2 Property Tenure (zoning, easements, local council)

Provides information relating to the extent of changes possible.  E.g. an above ground bed might or might not be preferred over an in-ground bed over a semi-mobile wicking pot.  Permanence versus trip hazard versus impacting others; a large nut tree planted above a “required access” section of sewage piping. Also any legal individual property requirements and rules of animal use, and land use.

3.3 Other Plans

There may be plans to install a shed or pergola or similar sometime in the future – discussion of where these might fit and options for their installation (e.g. living pergolas rather than tin might be cooler in summer, with plant selection being important for summer shade and winter light/warmth). Also any other council plans, rezoning, neighbors triplex plans to plan privacy screens etc.

3.4 On Site Resources (wind, water, light, carbon, buildings, shade)

Are there already systems installed – external tap locations, rain water tanks, wind breaks, compost piles, wood piles, waste building material, significant trees. Rocks, sand and clay are all resources that might decide one building technique above another.

Some will be obvious from the map we have, some will be hidden, but suggesting the client think about what they already have to offer is an important introduction to Observation within their yard.

Items like taps or rain water tanks can influence where high water use or specific hand watering requirements may be located to minimise the frustrations of maintenance activities.

3.5 House and Building Footprint

This should be obvious from the map we have, but it is important to understand the size taken up by the house itself; its position and orientation on the block; and the area adjacent to it (eg eves, paved areas) which limits the functional productive space

Floor Plan copy

(Reference: http://www.solardwellings.com.au/benefits/interactive-floorplan)

3.6 Vehicle Needs

Where do they park, do they store a trailer, what are the walk ways between the car and house – heading back to understanding habits.  Or where do we need to put hardy plants that can cope with a little vehicular trimming….

3.7 List of Plans, Maps, Drawings

If the resident has additional plans, maps etc – as our map might be out of date and our design require some work around new structures, underground utilities or take into account the removal of some constructions. Where is the kitchen window and exit door to place the kitchen garden, how doe the internal pathways in the house come out into the yard. They may have reticulation, shed wiring, and other plans they will help you produce a site layout design or just avoid trouble. Plans and drawings take a lot of time to produce, take the time to find all the existing ones, hardcopy’s and digital that you can.

3.8 Historical Land Use (Soil Contamination test?)

Just a general discussion if any consideration has been given to the location in the past?  Some have had soil tested and not understood the results so they end up in the back of a draw, some have just moved in so have no history, some have rented out the property but known the gardening service and others have lived in the house, but left the yard to “evolve naturally” for the last 10 years whilst life was spent in the house just surviving the busy times.

All answers give us an idea about both the yard and the people.  If the soil has been tested, it shows an interest and expense put to caring about the soil. Make this expense worth while by interpreting the results and weaving the findings into the design and everyone has won.

If they’ve just moved in, then it is important to emphasis that you don’t need a blank canvas to start with – FIRST BIG TIP OF THE DAY## DON’T REMOVE ANY PLANTS BEFORE ASKING FOR A DESIGN.  Too often we are called in to a barren landscape with the comment that we’ve cleared out all the useless stuff so we can make a Permaculture Space….. I shed a tear for the million (no exaggeration!) microclimates and their occupants now swept away, the nutrients which were once in the soil and part of the cycle now heading off as green waste, the soil life now exposed to the sun’s might, the larger life habitats which helped with pollination, importation of nutrients from elsewhere…. need I go on.  No tree is useless if it casts a shadow, no weed is useless if it has a leaf to capture energy…. they are all part of natures way of returning the system to a forest from whatever starting point.  See the opportunities and if you are yet to know how to, then take time to sit and observe, they’ll show you.

Gecko small willy wag tail small 8 copy

Over the course of this design process we’ll see that we can use that “useless” tree as shelter for vulnerable new plants, we’ll discover what that “weed” is achieving in the soil, we’ll spot the bee attractors… as you can tell, there is so much to see if we only know or take the time to look. Say NO to deforestation in every sized space! Wow, put the placard away, SH, back to topic….

If they’ve left it to “evolve naturally” due to lack of time, what has changed?  Do they have more time now for a specific reason or will times get busy again soon?  Whilst you cannot predict life’s twists and turns, if nothing significant has changed, then you need to consider the time available for the guider of your garden and start, perhaps, even smaller than you normally might, or make that early yield a little more visual.

Having said that, if the client is indeed yourself, how are things changing for you?  Are you going have time to set up the system? Are you going to have time to look after it in its infancy?  Or should you do an overall plan and then attack each area bit by bit so the higher time consuming areas are spaced out over time.  Easy, quick activities can be put in place to prepare the other areas so that when you get around to

3.9 Known Land Issues (Erosion, Flooding, etc)

As mentioned previously, if there are particular problems that can be simply fixed at the outset, there is a much greater chance of achieving a positive attitude in your client and enabling your system to utilise sun, rain, wind etc in a positive manner.  These are the free energy sources in a world of expensive amendments.

3.10 Privacy Current / Desired

Gardens can be designed as welcoming, guiding or subtly excluding visitors.  Rather than the 7 foot front wall, which makes a space hemmed in.  Hedging (dense or sparce) or tall grass systems (bamboo, bana grass or sugar cane) can help with visual privacy and the bana grass in particular is great for baffling noise and replacing it with a (mostly) gentle rustle.

3.11 Neighbour and Adjoining Land Limitations

This may be associated with legal limitation (e.g. planting in jointly owned or council land), the clients relationships with neighbours or habits of those who frequently visit or pass by your property.

Council verges must be carefully assessed with respect to your local regulations.  For example the line of sight of you, your neighbours and other road users must not be comprimised, so working in line with existing street trees for larger plants and only using low vegetation any further forward is essential.

Alternately a neighbour (down wind) may have horrid hay fever and therefore there may be limitations on what you want to afflict them with.  Or your neighbour might make the best apple and rhubarb pie….. what will we plant…..hmmmmmmm.  Seriously though, whilst good fences make good neighbours, agreed common ground gardens make good conversations.  As long as all parties are happy, then sometimes the limitations are less constricting than first imagined.  However investment in these common grounds should be limited such that if the land is required (and it was not yours to use as you saw fit), it should be easily and cheaply returned to its original state.

 

 4. Site Specifics – THIS IS WHERE WE STEP IN WITH ANSWERS

BUT should the client review the questions, they get an overview of the many influences on the site which we consider and may also trigger thoughts to help with more information in the above questions.  I will run through them briefly as we have already discussed many in our Assessment of the block previously.

Having said that, the last four are useful, but not essential to know prior to arrival at the site.

 

Sun angle on house with shadows winter copy4.1 Latitude and Climate Zone

Done

4.2 Elevation

Done

4.3 Slope Orientation and Solar Access (land to sun angle)

Done

 

4.4 Views

Back to the privacy question really, you may be looking to block the view of a two story eye-sore just beyond the back fence or avoid occlusion of ocean or valley views.  Consideration of these requirements are essential when planning significant fruit trees, nut trees or deciduous plantings which will seasonally impact the success of keeping the client happy with their outlook.

4.5 Contours and Slope (steepness)

Done

4.6 Microclimates

We’ll come back to this later, but a micro-climate can be described as a location where the impact of the major environmental factors (sun, rain, wind, fire etc) is influenced by what is present in that location.

It can be as simple as a log lying on the ground – the bark on top is exposed to the sun and wind, some creatures like this location; underneath is typically moist for longer and cooler, some creatures like this location; some creatures like to bore into the wood to make nests; spiders might span the gap between sections of the log and ground to catch creatures on the through breeze…..  Then as you look further and further from the log you’ll see the influence diminish as the duration of shade provided through the day reduces and wind buffering drops, but still these are different conditions seen as perfect for different life.  Going deeper within the soil under the log, you’ll see (if you could), the moisture and decomposition influence changing.

dry_desert-1221

(Picture Reference: http://poeticfool.com/2015/02/27/a-desert-mind-micropoetry-by-richard-stephen/)

All these locations associated with the one log can be considered individual micro-climates as their exposure to sun, rain, wind etc will differ and invite creatures of different preference to make a home.  Compare this to just an expanse of sand and you only have the depth profile changing and hence an array of micro-climates changing only as you go deeper – but note that even this is not necessarily devoid of micro-climates and life.  Compare this again to a forest, and just ponder about the explosion of influences and dynamic climates through out the season……

Whilst not simple, putting a little thought into considering micro-climates, who they attract, what might grow well, what structures are in place already and so on, it’s amazing how this helps with observation and understanding our impact.

An application example might be trying to grow tropical trees in Perth – to get humidity without significant water use or electricity, you need to build up a system which puts water into the air in an enclosed space….. a close planted group of trees, transpiring from their leaves can be very effective…. you construct a living micro-climate such that if you go on holiday and the retic fails, the living micro-climate (depending on the time of year!) has a much better chance of surviving than a humidity controlled greenhouse whose controller fails.

4.7 Water Sources and Storage – Guru Guest Comments

Bore water, scheme water (mains), rainwater, greywater or tankered-in ….there are many sources of water. As part of an effective water audit study for the site we need to know the sources, their quality, what we are using them for (drinking vs irrigation), the cost, how much and where we are going to store them. This is more applicable for rural settings when it comes to sources – rain into dams etc, but there may be rain water tanks or grey water systems installed which already have retic set up or are in locations where planning of gardens around that location will make it simpler for watering purposes.  This may be practical or not, but knowing where they are before you arrive gives you a mind’s eye picture as well as an understanding the Client’s recognition of water being an important resource.

Typically in an urban yard all that’s considered is the mains tapwater, but the most effective water supply system will be a combination of several sources at different times of year. If this is interesting you have a read of the Guru’s latest Water Workshop notes and we’ll revisit the topic in a whole blog of its own.

4.8 Water Quality and Seasonality

As Above

4.9 Rainfall

Done

4.10 Bore Quality, Water Table – Guru Guest Comments

Bores are an excellent source of irrigation water.  Using desalinated, chlorinated, fluoridated water to pour on the living soil is crazy when you think about it. We can all have a bore and even though the depth and quality varies (so you might want to test it), a bore is a great resource. The Perth Ground water atlas , Dept of Water, and Water Corporation offer lots of advise on Bores.

Bores seem to be frowned upon at the moment but I think as always people are missing the point. Yes there is domestic and commercial over abstraction BUT I have no gutters and impound all the rainwater that hits our block into the deep sand aquifer that feeds my bore no water flow leaves my block (only sewer waste). With a roof of 250m2 and a rainfall of 800mm I am putting 200kL from my roof into the soil not including the rest of the block (450m2x800). If we all did this the ‘underground rainwater tanks’ (our subsoil shallow aquifers) would all be full and fresh.

Borehole water

(Reference: http://www.resourcesandenergy.nsw.gov.au/miners-and-explorers/geoscience-information/nsw-geology-overview/sedimentary-basins/surat-basin)

4.11 Frost and Heatwave Timings (max / min Temps)

Done

4.12 Days of Drought

Done

4.13 Sunny and Cloudy Days

Done

4.14 Water Catchments and Size – Guru Guest Comments

Your whole block is a water catchment, but generally we are looking at hard surfaces that run off water that we can collect. Roof size and run-off coefficient (of roof material) will be needed as well as yearly and monthly rainfall data to size and plan rainwater tanks. On a farm or peri-urban block your catchment might be a hillside that is channeling water into your dams.

SH: Again, we’ll revisit the water topic in a whole blog of its own – as I’m keen to get the full picture.

4.15 Wind (direction, speed, temp)

Done

4.16 Erosion and Land Damage

Discussed above in examination of Clients concerns, but some will also be visually obvious during the site visit.

Photograph of seaside house that lies nearly on it's side with one end on higher sands and one side on the beach.

(Reference – http://alaskaconservation.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Shishmaref-home-lost-to-erosion.jpg)

4.17 Land Use Patterns and Zones

We’ll talk about this more as we move into the design, but it may be obvious that they are already walking a certain way to the car, to the mail box, to the bin, to an existing compost, which can be used as a frequently accessed location for those aspects of the design that might need daily attention.  Zones we’ll talk through as we hit the design, but these are just splitting the design landscape into areas that fulfill a certain function.  They may be defined based on closeness to the house – e.g. frequent use herbs are closest to the house exit nearest the kitchen as we want them as easy picking while the meal is being prepared OR the chickens are a little further from the house as there may be the potential for flies. – or slope / existing terracing or the clients capabilities/access.  Let’s come back to this.

4.18 Soil Types

Done in very great detail.

4.19 Mineral and Soil Life Tests

Done in very great detail.

4.20 Drainage/Adsorption Rates

General comments here may be helpful as there are different sands in different locations and this may be the first aspect we address. You can do a simple water infiltration test and will need this information if designing septic systems and leach drains.

4.21 Existing Vegetation (Natives, Exotics, Concerns, Tree Crops)

Please let there be existing vegetation! All good information and insight into the client.

4.22 Gardens (Fruit Trees and Veggies)

As above

4.23 Vines

As Above

4.24 Other Crops

As above

4.25 Habitation (Fauna, Native, Exotic, Pests, Predators)

As above, but also information here helps you understand the client – both from a “cup half full” perspective and an observational ability.  Some see the lovely visitors, some mis-identify pests/predators, some just like to sit and let it all wash over them.  There is a lot to gain in this query (if the client survives the interview sheet to here) as it sets a bit of a baseline on fauna education requirements.  As you know from my past writing – and my SECOND BIG TIP OF THE DAY## IF IN DOUBT (AND PREFERABLY EVEN IF NOT IN DOUBT) DON’T KILL IT BEFORE YOU UNDERSTAND ITS ROLE IN YOUR GARDEN. Do some research, make an informed choice and aim to control life with life, not with death.  Chance are if there is one, there are many and our good lady nature is waving her magic wand and giving you an opportunity to learn.

Looking up a loofah apple SUNFLOWER 3 Sweet Potatoes 3


And we have survived the (sometimes dry) Client Interview Sheet.  Next stop….. pack our bags and set off to site (plus a step back in time to the early naughties – 2003 to be exact – Dr Who would be impressed) as we explore the barren landscape of our design “canvas”.

Thanks again for joining me on this learning journey.  I hope you and your loved ones have had a smile-filled extended weekend and (now I have to confess yet another imperfection in the Soil Hugger!) a ripper kick-off to the footy season – just when I had started to worry about how to procrastinate with the ICC over!

We’ll try to stick with the design theme for the next few blogs to keep the ball rolling and get our design pencils warmed up, but I am also conscious of the delights awaiting in our plant section….

Exhibit E: The Lion’s Tail or Lion’s Ear or Klip Dagga

Exhibit F: The New Guinea Bean

Exhibit G: Wild Passionfruit

Exhibit H: African Cucumber

Plus I have been experimenting with Ice-Cream Beans, which might throw another topic into the mix – Why is everyone talking about them and why am I seeing them in so many designs….. AND I’ve been noticing changes as the season changes, so there will be a short series just on the fun observations to be had.

We shall see how disciplined I can be to stick to topic….hmmmmm.

Until then, Enjoy.

SH

Permaculture 102 – Permaculture Design Part 3: The Client Interview Sheet – Part 1.

Carrying on our adventure….. now we know the layout of the property, have an aerial diagram, some initial interpretations and have performed an assessment of the Sun’s impact (along with the other natural energies).  Step 1 completedStep 2 completed – CHECK!

Permaculture 102 – Step 3 – The Client Interview Sheet

(a) What is the aim of this step:

This step gives us the first look at the other major natural force in the garden – the GARDENER.  Having talked all about the importance of Sun in an urban design and Water in a rural design, gauging this particular force trumps all.  It is perhaps the most critical element in the planning of the garden, primarily to allow us to facilitate the work performed by the gardener into being a supportive force for nature’s evolution in the space.  The aim of this step is to trigger the thoughts of the client on items they might not have considered in their wants / needs and to highlight future discussion topics in order to get the most out of the site visit.

You’ll remember in Step 1 that we sent an email confirming we had the right house and that with this we sent a client interview sheet for them to fill out. In this step we’ll start to walk through the questions and provide a little background as to the reasoning behind each query.

Its critical throughout this step to keep in mind the Permaculture Principles – both with respect to ourselves and to the client.  For example:

Observe and Interact – “Observation and interaction of the designer within the system (and assisting its carer to do the same) enables the development of a design which builds the relationship between nature and people.”

Obtain a Yield – “If nitrogen fixing planting is done to improve the soil (in preparation for that gorgeous long term fruit tree forest!) in one area, then in another position, a yield for the household will be required in the short term to keep the attention on the garden as a whole – i.e. planting some seasonal, quick and prolific food producers.”

(b) What you need to start this step:

  1. The questionnaire returned by the client (or completed by yourself with your “owner’s hat on” if it is your garden we are talking about).
  2. The diagram from Step 1 – either on a computer, printed out, self drawn or what ever works for you to refer to as you read through the questionnaire.
  3. Some pencils/pens/textas (or virtual options if you are working on a computer) of different colours.
  4. Empathy – Your clients (and indeed us at this point – but just you wait…) will have varying degrees of understanding of what they want and need.  They are often are a little embarrassed about how much (or little) they know and that their expectations must be a mile off what is possible.  Psychology 101 – The more comfortable people are, the more they will talk (even off topic is sometimes helpful) and the more information you will gain into setting up a system that will compliment the owner and be capable of long term success.

(c) What you’ve got when you finish this step:

By the end we’ll have a good feel to the Client’s hopes for the location and know a little about the opportunities and challenges of the site and its (mental and physical) climate.  All set to pack our kit bag, have a last minute soil resuscitation refresh and then head to site.

HOW TO GET FROM (b) TO (c):

Okay, completed questionnaire in one hand, diagram from Step 1 in front of us and pencil in the other hand.  Bear in mind that when you got to site, it is recommended that you take a copy of the completed (if available and possibly with “notes to self”) plus a blank questionnaire so as to prompt discussion and fill in your own assessment of the answers from the discussions held.  Lets step through typical questionnaire…. if you want to view it in its native form as we use it, head to the TP Website – Free Notes Section.


A. The Formalities

Date, Client Name, Phone, Property Address and Consultant – all essential to keep filing in order and enable revisiting when future queries arrive – and they will!  Also great for client to look back on start date, and the opinions they had to see how far they have come at a later date.

1. The Client

1.1 Client’s understanding of Permaculture Design –

If this is answered with educational references, then you may have found yourself a “questioning, but in-sync” client who needs little convincing once a design’s motives have been explained.

If there is no or “NIL” response, then you need to consider that they are at least asking the right initial question (by seeking help along the Permaculture lines), but you may need to plan a brief introduction to Permaculture to ensure you are on the same track before progressing too far down the track.  You might want to split the job into two stages prior to getting to heading to site:

(a) the walk and talk option where there is the completion of the prior planning (which we are in the heart of) plus the site visit with discussion of some identified opportunity and touching on the Permaculture Ethics and Principles. This may then be followed by

(b), once they are confident that this style of garden design and implementation is for them, the second (and more time consuming stage) of documentation and construction of drawings for the design can be agreed upon.

As an aside, and general comment on human nature – call it ancient Soil Hugger Wisdom….. often it is the client who thinks they know less, that understands better how much there is yet to know.

1.2 Occupancy (Years to date / Future Plans) –

This query gives you a feel for the history of experience – do they know about the year round climate specific to their yard, will they have problems identified (eg run off of water in large downpours), have they tried gardening already and had specific issues we might find solutions for, do they know what has been done to the soil so far, do they know the history of chemical usage etc – If they have only been there 6 months then no, if 6 years then likely yes.

This also give you a feel for the future you need to cater to – are they renting only (or returning to the UK in 2 years) and so need quick wins with minimal long term dollar investment.  Or are they retiring and wanting a garden that produces for years to come. In this case, there may be a location identified for the short term seasonal production whilst another area will be in a phase of soil resuscitation in preparation for young trees in the future.  Brilliant soil and most young trees will out produce and out last developed trees placed in sand within a few years.

1.3 Number of People on Site –

How many are we aiming to support? How much productivity is needed? And what can be done with the excess? (Perhaps equally importantly: how many opinions/motives for investing in a garden design are needing to be catered to?)

Although it is important to note that many clients will have community interests where garden produce may be a valuable commodity – gifts for neighbours at Christmas, produce swaps, small incomes from local green grocer or just conversation starters at the dinner table.  In line with the Act Belong Commit initiative (being pushed in Perth to create less lonely soles and better mental health across the board), this garden may be the first step into Community Gardens, local growing groups or other social arenas …. so excess production need never be a waste product, if not used to invest in the soil’s future, it can be used to invest in a social future.

And here you have discovered a small passion of mine summed up by the absolutely brilliant Terry Pratchett as Miss Level (a witch) and Tiffany (a witch in training) wander through the local villages and farms “doing medicine” –

“Tiffany couldn’t quite work out how Miss Level got paid…..Hat full of skya woman would scurry out with a fresh-baked loaf or a jar of pickles, even though Miss Level hadn’t stopped. But they’d spend an hour somewhere else, stitching up the leg of a farmer…and get a cup of tea and a stale biscuit.  It didn’t seem fair. 

‘Oh, it evens out,’ said Miss Level…’You do what you can. People give what they can when they can.  Old Slapwick there, with the leg, he’s as mean as a cat, but there’ll be a big cut of beef on my doorstep before the week’s end, you can bet on it…..Pretty soon people will be killing their pigs for the winter, and I’ll get more brawn, ham, bacon and sausages turning up than a family could eat in a year.’  

‘You do? What do you do with all that food?’  

‘Store it,’ said Miss Level. 

‘But you-‘

‘I store it in other people.  It’s amazing what you can store in other people…..I take what I don’t need round to those who don’t have a pig, or who’re going through a bad patch, or who don’t have anyone to remember them.’

‘But that means they’ll owe you a favour!’

‘Right! And so it just keeps on going round.  It all works out”  (A Hat Full of Sky, Terry Pratchett, 2004).

Now I read these books many years ago, but it is only going back with a new perspective that I see his comments on life, human nature and perhaps how much knowledge of each of these we have forgotten in our modern busy world.  As well as an entertaining read – but find the book that works for you, some are for the young reader whilst others have many levels which will entice young and older kids alike.  Back to the topic….

1.4 Age (s) –

Each household member should be included in decision making to ensure they are engaged and gain value from the garden.  This is very important for spouses, but also for engaging kids into learning the value of observing how a garden can provide for the household and that not all products are “picked” in plastic containers off the supermarket shelf.  It also brings a little eco-system into the everyday lives which, if developed well, will teach all household members the balance of production between now and the future; pests and predators; fauna and flora etc.

Recall we previously talked about “all the bits in a design (elements) and how their interaction with one another needs to be considered – so the whole is greater than the sum of its parts (system)”  The family must be considered as elements within the garden and the garden designed to ensure that both benefit from the relationship.  With a little questioning on the day, designs can be developed with features to work towards ongoing interest…. even if sometimes play needs to be mixed in with work:

Encourage others _ Kids 6 small  Encourage others _ Kids 8 small From Crazy Carrot Man to seed saving!

Tip of the Day – Always encourage the children (of any age) to be involved.

1.5 Occupation (s) –

Now you will start to see the strategy of questioning where different questions cover similar topics and hence draw out more information than might be gained by a single direct query.

Feedback on occupation can indicate a skill which might be employed as part of the garden’s evolution and maintenance (e.g. carpenter, welder, or an 80:20 personality versus a 100:99); the amount of time available to spend in the garden (e.g. home parent of young child – unlikely to have spare time versus clock on clock off individual who has outside work hours and less demand upon them!); the duration of absences that the garden will have to cope with (e.g. FIFO workers); the existing level of knowledge and interest in edible gardening (e.g. a chef); and much much more.  Bear in mind that this however is only one piece of the proverbial puzzle.

1.6 Eating Habits –

This question can be (and has been!) answered in a number ways, giving different degrees of insight into the lifestyle of the household.  Typically here we see the information of a specific style of cooking (e.g. Thai, Indian, Vegetarian, Meat and three vege) OR comments on home-made versus take away OR we host lots of dinner parties OR we eat a lot of X, Y and Z at meal times OR we graze on fruit all day.

These provide good tips about the style of seasonal garden that might be considered, but also whether there may be a degree of education involved in the planting plan.  For example (and linking into the occupation comments above), if there is a lot of take away due to having no time for meal preparation or limited grocery storage, then if greens (and other colours) are just outside the back door and real flavours are experienced, habits (and health) may be adjusted.   Alternately they may eat a lot of cabbage – less easily grown for ongoing supply within an urban yard, but it might be replaced with greens like Kale, Broccoli,  Spinach.  Iceberg Lettuce has a million options for replacement in salads which will change the texture and visual effect of a salad.

The long term planning to meet the tree based needs can also be based on information here – our fruit-atarians.

1.7 Likes, dislikes and allergies –

This query, unlike the one above which identifies current habits, is more focused on the future.  It tends to bring our the stories of a tree or vine at our Grandmother’s house when we were small and how the fruit (normally stone fruits feature!) from the shop has never lived up to this memory.  Alternately it might be the other end of the spectrum where years of being force fed broccoli has the client banning it from the design….. this may be appropriate, or it might be that the leaves of the broccoli can be suggested as edibles (young in salad, older as spinach or cabbage substitute), OR that a different variety or perhaps younger (assuming the “hated” broccoli was a supermarket standard) could sway the taste buds?

Pets/livestock can also crop up here if the idea of things like chooks have been an incentive to look to into Permaculture.  We’ll come back to them later.

Obviously it is very important to understand allergies, both the trigger and the extent of the reaction.  If there is slight hay fever during spring, then it is unlikely to be beneficial to adjust the garden design, but you may consider the main breeze way through the house and avoid planting “profuse flowering pollen makers” immediately outside that door.  However having a design feature of an enormous mango tree in the yard of a family who are all severely allergic – should be a criminal offense – for the wasted precious mangoes and the endangerment of life!

1.8 Routine Habits –

This question could have more information with it, but sometimes less is more.  It is important to identify the paths that the client takes often throughout their garden.  Adjacent to these paths are the garden areas most likely to receive attention on a regular basis.  Perhaps the front door to car walk or the back door to the clothes line.  Identifying the locations of the main house exits will also help with the supply of garden produce to the kitchen – i.e. frequency of use versus distance to kitchen – herbs and leafy greens might need to be close, where as fruit trees who produce seasonally can be further away.

Other routines which might crop up with a query less specifically focused on paths might be more cooking habits, grey water considerations, disposal of scraps/composting, etc

1.9 Lifestyle – Current and Desired –

Busy and wanting to slow down, indoor and wanting to make the outdoors inviting, self-sufficiency drive…. although comments here are less common, those with real passion and vision go to town.  Its a lovely positive look at the drive motivating the client to have a design done for them.  It is another question which can be answered similarly to many others – time wise, work wise etc – but brings out the gut feel for gardening.  Its a good first look for the client at the end goal they want.

Thinking about it, even if not put down on paper, will help the members of the household get onto the same page or at least understand how far apart those pages are.  Getting all elements of a human nature understanding each other’s perspective, even if not agreeing, is critical in the early stages of the design process.  There is a risk of surprises leading to requests being posed part way through the design process which trigger a recycle loop and more time being spent.  There is also the risk of the time being wasted altogether when the design does not get implemented due to all parties not being satisfied

1.10 Time to Spend Working Onsite – Current and Future –

??????????????????????????????? This was covered in discussion on occupation, but in both the daily availability of gardeners and the long term off site activities which will impact the design of the area.  This query can also help identify those that might need that “Obtain a Yield” bigger and sooner than others…..

The quick visual feedback of a greening and producing space to allow the less committed amongst us to sit back, relax and bask (like Tinkerbell and Fawn) in the glory of a garden we are proud to share.

I.e. we get to know a little about the work ethics and enthusiasm of the household.

Conversely, if it is a FIFO household and the garden will be loved for X weeks and then left to fend for itself for Y weeks, consideration should be given to the kick off of planting to enable plants to get established during winter when the breaks in attention will be during mild conditions.  It may also be more critical to set up the micro-climates and shade systems before planting the high productivity plants, giving them the best opportunity to survive within a guild (co-ordinated group of plants, plants and animals, or either with inanimate features to benefit all with the growing environment produced).  Specific attention to the Summer versus Winter spaces will help plants establish and structured reticulation will obviously also feature heavily in the design to bridge the summer gaps.

1.11 Budget for Design / Site Works –

Very few will answer this question.  Its like buying a car and announcing you’re willing to pay the asking price before you’ve seen the car or know the asking price.  However, coming from a family that thinks it is vulgar to talk about money, it is important that the client considers in their own mind what they are willing to spend.  Gardening on sand can be expensive, so it is just something to keep in the back of the mind as we describe importing clay, kelp etc

I.e. if the budget is tiny for a 600m2 block, then you might need to focus on one specific area and grow the confidence from there.  Alternately if there is a large budget with long term initiatives in mind, then a much better bang for their buck is possible by investing in soil resuscitation than seasonal shortterm growers.

1.12 Skills (Building / Gardening / Craft) –

We discussed this earlier, but here is the option of looking outside the occupation and into the hobbies.  It is amazing the suggestions put in here that you would not associate with designing a garden and yet turn out to be valuable inputs if approached/incorporated carefully – the best fruit fly protection bags come from the sewing gurus amongst us, not the mass producers!

1.13 Disabilities –

Disabilities need not limit the garden’s impact on the household or the enjoyment found within the edible landscape.  Depending on the disability and your perspective consideration may need to be given to path widths, raised narrow beds for less bending and easy reach, maintenance requirements may need consideration, the practical positioning of seats or the size of each stage of the garden’s development to ensure gains are achieved without exhausting or frustrating a member of the household – Obtain that yield.  At the same time specific features such as water gardens and fish can be a focus area which grabs everyone’s attention and just about look after themselves.

With disabilities, long term illness or the quickly exhausted (for what ever reason), the design implications are very specific to the needs of the client, but sticking with the theory that we must involve all members of the household in order to consider a garden to be successful and to have longevity, this is an area which should have significant thought and smart ideas.

To Be Continued….. don’t you hate that!

Apologies, but Christmas is calling and I want to send this out with a huge thanks to you all for your acceptance of me into this world of blogging and for joining me along the road of what is an eventful journey.  I wish you and your loved ones a smile-filled festive season and (now I have to confess another imperfection in the Soil Hugger!) an interruption-free Boxing Day Test!

I have a special Happy New Year gift in store for you….. I’ll say it with flowers….. yes, I confess I’m a sucker for flowers, but they have to have to be fascinating or awe inspiring, pretty just ain’t gonna cut it!

Until then, Enjoy.

SH

 

 

Permaculture 102 – Permaculture Design Part 2: Assessing an Urban Garden’s Potential Based on Sun Angles, and other Sources of Natural Energy.

Carrying on from our last adventure….. now we know the layout of the property we’re doing the design for, we have an aerial diagram to draw on and we have some initial interpretations of the block from the diagram, the general area’s climate and even the attitude of the council towards elephants.  Step 1 completed – CHECK!


Permaculture 102 – Step 2 – The Prior Planning Prevents P Poor Performance (B) (Otherwise known as The 6 P’s ) – Mapping the Natural Energies (or using lingo “Preliminary Sector Analysis”)

(a) What is the aim of this step:

This step gives us the first look at real Permaculture thinking – the Sector Analysis of the space. We’ll look at what is outside the design area but has an impact on it – I.e. the channeling, or alternately protection from, one of nature’s energy sources – wind, sun, fire, water, frost.  One of these will often represents a dominant force in a design – e.g. the sun – pretty dominant in Perth!

Whilst this example will be specific to Perth, similar input information will be available for anywhere in the world and the interpretation will be the same.  The only difference is that perhaps an alternate energy source will dominate your design.

Please remember from Step 1 –  I am talking about arriving at a location, understanding a foreign landscape, and looking at the area around the property – I.e. you are working for a client.  But if you’re just doing your own block, then the best advice is to “take off the owner’s hat and put on the designer’s hat” and approach the project in exactly the same way as I describe.  Pretend you have not seen it before… put away the desires, sentiments and nice-to-haves (we’ll bring them back in later – the client interview!).  It is easier and more effective for the system to design it objectively first and then adjust (with attention to the Permaculture Principles!) later to incorporate the hopes of the “client”, than doing it the other way around. So, put that designer hat on, and take a look at your space with your new Permaculture eye!

(b) What you need to start this step:

  1. The diagram from Step 1 – either on a computer, printed out, self drawn or what ever works for you.
  2. Some pencils/pens/textas (or virtual options if you are working on a computer) of different colours.
  3. A Protractor (or just a general feel for the difference between 0, 35, 82, and 90 degrees from horizontal (ground level),
  4. A ruler to help you transfer your scale from Step 1 to different areas around the area.

(c) What you’ve got when you finish this step:

This step will give you an idea of the seasonal changes occurring within the block and hence the heat/solar energy, air flow, fire risk, water delivery opportunity/problems, or chill locations that need to be worked with at a very high level.  This helps you know (a) what plants will survive and thrive in different areas of the garden all year round and for many years to come (perennials); (b) which spaces should be dedicated to annuals (with alternate season options too!); and (c) where we can look at creating new protection systems to extend the time an area is suitable for growth (E.g. the addition of a deciduous tree or a wind guiding bank of plants).

Those energies less dominant in the urban setting (e.g. fire, water) will be explored in more detail once we have got a handle on the design process by running through it completely once and then having the confidence to look at the differences in approach for rural blocks.

HOW TO GET FROM (b) TO (c):

THE MAIN AIM:

One of key ideas behind a Permaculture Design is that “systems, fueled by the sun, should produce not only their own needs, but the needs of the people creating or controlling (hopefully guiding) them.  Thus, they are sustainable….. We can use energy to construct these systems, providing that in their lifetime, they store or conserve more energy than we use to construct or to maintain them.” (Permaculture – A Practical Guide for a Sustainable Future, Bill Mollison)

To achieve this, time needs to be put into planning the system to set it up for success and to ensure that the dependence on our input lessens over time.  Recurrent Theme Number 9 – “The philosophy behind Permaculture is one of working with, rather than against, nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless action… (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)

This deliberate pre-assessment process (mapping, sector analysis, etc) before speaking to the client onsite is important to enable an objective view of the system.  At the client interview onsite, time limitations as well as client desires, previous experiences, or what exists there already can drag us into the details. And here enters Recurrent (AND HARDEST TO STICK TO) Theme Number 8 – Patterns to Details, Patterns to Details, Patterns to Details.  (I like the analogy of a jigsaw puzzle – Looking at the patterns is like seeing the overall picture and placing the individual pieces in the general area in which they would go and later adjusting them to fit in with their adjacent pieces.  Looking at the details is like choosing one piece and then hunting for its adjacent pieces and working your way out…..The pieces of the puzzle might be called the Elements (all the bits in a design), the pieces combined with their adjacent pieces to make up the characters in the puzzle might be called the Systems (how the elements interact with one another locally) and the overall puzzle is the collation of these systems within the design space giving us the total picture/productive environment). The more you can assess these nature patterns before arriving, the more time you have at the location for noticing (and asking about) the more subtle patterns which will help you place those pieces/elements in the right general areas/systems.

ENERGY NUMBER ONE – THE SUN

The sun is the most important energy to design for in an urban Perth design and this will be our focus for this blog.  In short, we have a lot of it and sometimes it is less forgiving than others.  The next section is Sun Angles 101 – so if you are pretty comfy with this please whizz down to the summary…. just prior to “ENERGY NUMBER TWO.” However if you’re not, then please spend a bit of time reviewing this (and in some places being told the blindingly obvious – sorry, but I am the lowest common denominator!) because it is going to be evident later why it is so important to have a picture in your mind’s eye of the below diagrams, graphs or another means of remembering the implications of sun and shade.  You may only get to see the space in one season, planning for just that season will lead to high work requirements to help it survive.  So off we go on Sun Angles 101….

The axis of earth (around which the planet itself rotates – 24hrs) is tilted 23 degrees from the notional vertical (i.e. 23 degrees from the plane which is perpendicular to our elliptical path of orbit round the sun – 365.25days).   This tilt does not change.  “Because of the axial tilt of the Earth in its orbit, the maximum intensity of sun rays hits the earth 23.4 degrees north of equator at the June Solstice (at the Tropic of Cancer)” – the shortest day in Perth –, “and the maximum intensity of sun rays hits the earth 23.4 degrees south of equator at the December Solstice (at the Tropic of Capricorn)” – the longest day in Perth. The Periapsis noted on the below diagram indicates the time when the earth is at the nearest point to the Sun within its (our) elliptical path and falls anywhere from 2 January to 5 January.  (Reference) It is interesting to note the close timing of this Periapsis with the Summer Solstice for Perth and to note for future reference that Perth is 32 degrees south (31..

Suns orbit

The Earth's tilt affects the seasons

(Ref)

With that in mind, let’s zoom in on the Summer Time in Perth – December 21st….

SUN ANGLE SUMMER copyThe importance of this will be evident as we move through to the winter intensity diagram. Now, if we change out perspective a little, we can see that the angle the sun hits the earth in Perth is at ~82 degrees to the ground, almost over head.

SUN ANGLE SUMMER TO GROUND copySo what we can assume in Perth is that in Summer, on the south side of any structure, the shade provided will be about one seventh of its height.

If we change our perspective again, this time looking down we see the arc of the sun as a high intensity “piece-of-pie”.  This piece of pie is called the Sun Arc:

Perth Sun Arc(Please don’t look too closely – obviously the globe I have used was not “Made in Freemantle”)

I have made the width of the pie reflect the length of the day and the intensity of the yellow reflects the high intensity of the sun’s energy. The height of the pie on the above diagram show the sun shining on Perth from its path over the Tropic of Capricorn.  We’ll revisit this when we get to winter to see the difference in schematic representation.

So let’s look at our property and put in the path that the sun is passing – the Sun Arc – plus a little info about shadows – once we get on location we can assess the eaves, roof pitch etc to see what bonus space is available.

Sun angle on house with shadows copy

The importance of this information is more evident when we turn our attention to the difference apparent in the middle of the year….

SUN ANGLE WINTER copySee that the area covered by the unit of sun energy is greater and hence the energy per unit area is less.  Additionally with the angle of the sun, the shadows are longer on the south side as per the below

SUN ANGLE WINTER TO GROUND copyPerth Sun Arc winterSun angle on house with shadows winter copy

Note here that the width of the pie is narrower reflecting the shorter days and the intensity of the yellow is less showing the intensity of the sun’s energy as less per unit area. The height of the pie on the above diagrams (relative to that in Summer) show the sun shining on Perth from its path over the Tropic of Cancer.

Okay, now we’re going to get a little more complicated… I have kept the pieces of pie narrow to show the middle portion of the day, but what about dawn and dusk?  Due to the curvature and tilt of the earth, when the sun rises in Perth, even though it is still above the Tropic of Capricorn (23 degrees south) and “approaching us” over over the Indian Ocean, it appears to rise from the horizon south of us – 28 degrees south of east to be exact in Mid Summer.

You too can steal a child’s globe; use multiple rulers; torches; three sets of arms; and alternate swearing and “eureka”-ing moments…. or you can just believe the internet gurus.  Here are a couple of diagrams to try and explain the sun’s path as developed by the internet gurus (who, I’ve discovered are actually right!):Sun angle dawn(Reference)

SUNCALC WINTER SUNCALC SUMMER(Reference)

So in other words, even though that back wall of the house has been in shadow (red) in both the Summer and Winter Diagram, it may still get the Summer’s early morning and late afternoon light (providing the shadows of other obstacles don’t come into play). Note also that this morning and afternoon light is on a large angle east/west, therefore each unit falls on a large area (as we saw for winter in a north/south direction) and so has a much lower intensity than the noon sun energy unit – i.e. in Summer this is the sunlight to capitalise on or, if we are clever, to create….

So now we have a feel for the shadows on the property across the seasons without having had to spend the “observation” time. We can see that in the Summer the front of the house is exposed, but the back has at least one decent tree to protect some parts.  In Winter the back is heavily shadowed, but the front has small trees and will work well as a sunny winter garden.  Note that by knowing the date of the intramaps photo and our new knowledge of the sun angles, we can estimate the height of the main structures based on shadow length even before we get there…… The date on the above intramaps was February 2014 – indicating a very large tree on the back west side indeed.

It is important to find the pictorial (or other) method that makes sense to you. The concept of the angle of the sun over the full course of the day and across all seasons has beed represented in the follow Sun Sector Maps.  There are many types, so if these don’t gel with you, keep searching.

sun angle perth graph(Ref: Murdoch) – Purely sun angles.

But to capture our second major natural energy – WIND – , the following diagram was used in the Terra Perma Design Manual ….

Generalised Sector Map (Ref: Terra Perma Design – PDC Manual)

So without more adieu onto the next energy…

ENERGY NUMBER TWO – THE WIND

Having lived in Perth there are a few breezes which dominate and are general airflows across the city/suburbia –

  1. Summer and Autumn – early morning easterlies bringing in the heat
  2. Summer and Autumn – mid (hopefully) to late afternoon south westerly bringing in the cool – the Fremantle Doctor – which then swings southerly in the evening.
  3. Winter – rains typically coming across the ocean with strong westerlies or north westerlies.

Given the sun is the major energy to plan for in the coastal plain, then the second should be the capture and funneling of the Freo Doctor to cool the garden and living space.

Additionally we might consider pond  and lush green vegetation placement on the upstream side of these summer breezes to cool both the garden habitat and the home within it.

In the last blog we looked at the Bureau of Meteorology’s information on wind and rain with would fit well in this step of mapping the energy.  Obviously the discussion with the client will let you know about the more local breezes, for example some streets are perfectly set up so that a wind tunnel forms, but its always good to have a feel for the major paths so you know what questions to ask.

ENERGY NUMBER THREE – WATER

On our urban block, we have water “on tap”.  Whilst we will always view water as a precious resource, the means by which we capture and use it on our small design block is not going to make or break our design – only our hip pocket and our ethics when it comes to the energy required to deliver this resource to our taps and its scarcity.  But we’ll discuss this further later…. covering water catchment measures, ground catchment, bore usage, grey water etc

Alternately in the hills and more rural properties, the key element to look at is water, both for consideration of water catchment and run off / erosion, as with a large property, our means of capture and diversion will make itself evident as a make or break.  Once we have covered the urban block design case, we will strike out and examine alternate design scenarios – from balconies to hectares.

ENERGY NUMBER FOUR – FIRE

Again fire is not considered a significant design definer within urban blocks, but when considering the rural block, the summer winds combined with land slopes will quickly highlight the position of fire retarding measures within a design and, again, we will come back to this.

ENERGY NUMBER FIVE – FROST

Not so relevant in Perth, but worth consideration on urban blocks in cooler (more southern or higher altitude) towns/cities and rural blocks when considering planting species or constructing habitats on a slope.

OTHER NATURAL ENERGIES

Many other energy streams might be considered more relevant to the rural block when compared to that of the urban environment.  For example: (1) Consideration of wildlife paths and hence fencing choices; (2) Consideration of slope and hence the positioning of the house, chill zones and ponds; (3) Consideration of water catchment locations at higher locations to enable the use of gravity to deliver the water – i.e. fail safe (especially critical in a fire scenario!)….  These will crop up as we consider our urban block, but when the scale increases to the rural setting several more factors guide the placement of the elements within the design.  But lets stay simple for our first venture through the process.

And our preliminary Sector Analysis has been completed.


The next steps (and blogs) – Step 3 – Pre-Assessment of the Client – The Client Interview Sheet followed by  Step 4 – The Tools of the Trade – Critical Things to Take and finally Step 5 – A QUICK Soil Recap and a Soil Resuscitation (SR) Check List.

Then we’ll be ready to set foot on site, get into more detailed observation and kick off our design process.  But don’t be fooled whilst it appears like we are going slow, we must remind ourselves that  – Recurrent Theme Number 9 – “The philosophy behind Permaculture is one of working with, rather than against, nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless action… (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)  Believe me it is this protracted and thoughtful observation that we are going to embrace and you’ll be amazed at the insights we’ll stumble across together.

Until then, enjoy.

Permaculture 102 – Permaculture Design: For Rural Only? Not in the slightest! – Part 1

Phew…. So sorry for such a long pause.  However, I hope I will adequately reward you for your patience!  In this series we’ll hold each other’s hands through an example of the Permaculture Design process….

72 hours over two weeks in the Terra Perma Design Permaculture Design Course and I have PDC MANUALpopped out the end with a certificate (was there ever any doubt!), some extra kilos (brain cells only, I promise!), a new way of looking at the space/opportunities around me and a desire to share this potential with others.  And you guys thought I was passionate before…..  Sorry for the break in communication, but I had to settle down before putting pen to paper (as it were) for fear of completely (in the words of one of my worst ever lecturers….) discombobulating you with my explanations and enthusiasm….

The course started with the Principles and Ethics (which we’ve been through already – See Previous Blog – so far I was keeping up!) to set the foundations, but before we knew it we were onto Elements and Systems (all the bits in a design (elements) and how their interaction with one another needs to be considered – so the whole is greater than the sum of its parts (system)); then Zones (setting different goals for different areas of the garden based on their location and hence placing the right Elements into that Zone – Lingo 101!); and then Sector Analysis (What is outside the design but has an impact on it – I.e. the channeling or alternately protection from natural energies – wind, sun, fire, water, frost.  One of these will often represents a dominant force in a design – e.g. the sun – pretty dominant in Perth! )….and that was just day 1!

Day two started with soil being studied in depth (ahaaa, now I’m back on familiar turf….excuse the puns), with the entry of Recurrent Theme Number 1 – No matter what the situation – Build the soil – sounds like my kind of mantra!  Then onto looking at how nature has optimised gardening into tried-and-tested effective patterns – from maximising surface area on a leaf to capture the most energy from the sun… to the creation of a forest gradually with the evolution of multiple layers – the high canopy needing sunlight, protecting those below who need less, but who might provide more leaf litter for compost to feed the canopy – complimenting rather than competing.  Recurrent Theme Number 2 – Utilise nature’s years of learning – set up a design to work with nature and reduce your own energy/work input requirement (sounds like my kind of objective!).  Then onto the Climate – how to design a garden and the systems in it for the dominant climate impacts, as well as implications on the home – energy passive home designs, different building techniques, and simple changes on existing structures.  In this topic we also explored our ability to:

  1. create Micro-climates –  the little pockets that differ in temp/moisture/air movement/etc due to the items around it.  E.g. a rock in the sun has a micro climate which might suit lizards (potential pest predators!) versus the soil surface under a dense low shrub which caters to completely different creatures;
  2. understand the slope’s effects on climate – the steepness and hence water run off; cooler air falling, hot air rising; which way the slope is facing – all impacting the different climates on a property and what can be done to influence them to suit the ongoing production of edibles without depleting the soil; and
  3. co-ordinate the grouping (or Guilding) of plants, plants and animals, or either with inanimate features to benefit all with the growing environment produced.

Recurrent Theme Number 3 – Design for sun on urban blocks and water on rural block.

And that was just days 2 and 3….and on it went – more intriguing as we delved deeper; more enlightening as those significant (but somehow obvious, if I had ever bothered to think about it!) pennies dropped; and getting more excited about being out there, stealing a space in our garden and giving it a bloody good go at “observing” my own mistakes….(a very important Permaculture Principle!)  but all the time I had that ever helpful inner voice saying “you’re never going to remember all this!”

So this series of Permaculture Blogs will be me “remembering”, with a little help from my guru, and trying to relay the design process as I understand it.  It will not be from the perspective we did it in within the course (partially outlined above), which was by working with the global messages which apply across all situations and are specific from the design principals perspective, but are not specific to one property, one recipe or one client…. Recurrent And MOST IMPORTANT Theme Number 4 – It Depends.  As merely touched on above, there are so many factors to consider for each and every element of each guild in each zone of the garden, that it is easy to get lost if that global view is not already pumping through your veins.  So we’ll take the less global path by picking a residence and working through the process from scratch (as promised previously), but with a paragraph (who am I kidding…or four) at the end of each bit to consider the principles and design methods we have “accidentally” considered along the way (as well as a little commentary mixed in when appropriate!).

There will also be a bit of lingo and few tips I have picked up, mainly for the impressing of friends rather than to reflect your worth as a budding designer, but it will help us when exploring the books or the brains of like minded folks on the topics in the future!

Within the course we were lucky enough to look at 3 property for potential designs – which were fascinatingly different and resonated in very different ways with each of us.  And it is here that I want to emphasis that, when planning a productive, low maintenance, relatively self evolving garden (which is really what Permaculture Design is all about), Recurrent Theme Number 5 – Size Doesn’t Matter.

  1. One was rural, sloped property with so much potential for production that Recurrent Theme Number 6 – Avoid Analysis Paralysis could so easily inhibit kicking off anything for fear of stifling any of that potential into the future.
  2. The second was a circa 700m2 urban block which was a blank canvas out the back (except for a glorious Carob tree right in the middle) and out the front was a micro climate creators dream.
  3. Thirdly (and where we implemented some of our newly learnt skills) was a small rental unit with very limited space, but even then, with clever use of design techniques, we could provide huge benefits to the occupier.

Even this last unit did not represent the minimum space / minimum soil in which Permaculture Designing could be applied….but that, as they say, is another story.

And so, onto our new project, Casa De Soil Hugger …..


Permaculture 102 – Part 1 – Where to start…..

Step 1 – The Prior Planning Prevents P Poor Performance (A) – Mapping the Space

(a) What is the aim of this step:

Before you arrive at the location it is good to understand a few details about a property so you can understand what your in for and not waste the valuable time when you are on site.

For example, are we looking at hectares or paved courtyards, flat or steep, bare landscape or established trees or where north is….? (As an aside, you’d be surprised how many people live on winding streets and north is not where they or you think it is!) All these give you an idea of what to expect when you arrive, to arrive at the right home and to understand some of the external influences that might impact your design.  An example might also be that you identify they are on a main road and their largest potential production area is in their front yard – you might be thinking noise and visual screening (or they may want a community garden in their front yard!), alternately they might be two streets from the beach so you might be thinking about salt tolerance and wind buffering.

You also have a diagram of the property as you walk through it, allowing you to mark up the diagram as you go for future reference.

Now you may notice I am talking about arriving at a location, understanding a foreign landscape, and looking at the area around the property – I.e. you are working for a client.  But what if you’re just doing your own block?  The best advice is Recurrent Theme Number 7 – “take off the owner’s hat and put on the designer’s hat” and approach the design exactly this way.  Pretend you have not seen it before, put away the desires, sentiments and nice-to-haves (we’ll bring them back in later – the client interview!).  It is easier and more effective for the system to design it objectively first and then adjust (with attention to the Permaculture Principles!) later to incorporate the hopes of the “client”, than doing it the other way around. So, put that designer hat on, and take a look at your space with a Permaculture eye!

(b) What you need to start this step:

  1. A computer with internet access or an aerial plan of the property (not just so you can refer to this blog!).
  2. A computer drawing package (I use inkscape – free online; but there are several available to choose from – autocad or photoshop are also good, but expensive-; or even just a printer and some tracing paper will do the trick – getting fancy is not the goal of the exercise!)

(c) What you’ve got when you finish this step:

You know the home/space you are going to design for, you have an aerial diagram to help you prepare for the visit and you have a coarse idea of the scale, slope and surroundings.

 

Options on how to get from (b) to (c):

To get your property map to get started, you can use google maps, but most Perth councils offer a service called intramaps – in our design case City of Stirling.  Whilst the options differ depending on what council you belong to, this free information normally allows you to find the property quite accurately, super-impose contour line (indicating slope), property boundary lengths and demarcation, and often include a scale.

Do a web search “City of Stirling Intramaps”; click on the intramaps link and the below window will open; click on “Start Intramaps”.

Design Step 1 copy Intramaps 2

On the bottom left, you will see the search option tabs – I use “Address Search”, but you might be looking to do a community garden and so use the reserve search, or elect to just zoom in and find the location manually. You might end up with a picture like the following:

Property Located copy

Once here, the number of games you can play with the property are endless.  There is a side bar on the left which you need to hover your mouse over – this lets you turn on indicators like street trees, bicycle routes, contours (less relevant – and often less accurate! – for urban blocks; critical for rural blocks) and zoning.  There is also the option to add the aerial picture for different times in our council software.  Some councils have the aerial photo on an opacity scale, which is very helpful.  You will also notice that my council has a scale in the bottom right hand corner – very handy – , but if you don’t have this, then you might have the option of boundary dimensions from which you have make up a reasonable scale.  There are measuring options at the top (length and area) which can help you confirm the scale and get some details about the yard size directly off the software.  Note that north is sometimes indicated on the intramap, but if not generally you can assume it is up the screen – however it might be wise to check a known landmark – e.g. the ocean, the river, a park you know…  North is a pretty critical item to know as you will see as we progress through the design.

Remember these maps are approximate, and even the numbering of the house has been known to be wrong, let along the contours or other features.  Always make sure you have the right place before getting to far down the path….

Back on track, SH – This is what I have found to be a useful diagram to kick off with….

Urban Design House Aerial 2 copy

As you can see, I have zoomed in, taken a screen snapshot (alt+PrtScn) and pasted it into my trusting Drawing Package.  I have zoomed in further to make the space easier to work with (don’t worry about the resolution, we only need the basic outlines for this view), but have also ensured that I have grabbed the scale and north off the same screen snapshot to make sure it is approximately “to scale” and hence limit the inaccuracy.

Whilst the neighbourhood looks so realistic that you might not have noticed…. to protect the identity of the owner, I have made a few adjustments, but please bearing in mind I would (a) include these surrounding houses in my mapping of the space to get an idea of their impact on the area within the property we are focused on, (b) have the scale (as I said from the same screen dump), (c) ensured/confirm North is up and (d) know which way the contour lines are indicating slope and the interval (steepness).

Its good to send an email confirming you have the right house, along with a client interview for them to fill out (we’ll talk through that in due course)…. that way we know we are looking at the right spot before taking things further…..

Now we can start looking closer.  What can we infer from the photo…

  1. Its a full block – approx 700m2 (using my fancy intramaps measuring tool), good potential for an ecosystem to be created (i.e. a good design will enable the garden to support itself to a large degree).
  2. The house’s frontage is north, but has long sides on the east and west.
  3. The slope is gentle and upward towards the south end (if you believe the contours).
  4. There are some significant trees on site (based on the look of the shadow).
  5. There is lots of roof space…. rain water capture??
  6. They seem pretty set on solar power!
  7. The driveway is front and left of centre. (Google maps might have a street view of the frontage which will help you locate the front door – normally car to house is a key path for the client)
  8. There are some pretty significant structures (two storey homes) adjacent to the block especially at the rear which need to be considered for their shading effect.
  9. The block is about 3.5km from the beach (using my fancy intramaps measuring tool)….sea breeze cooling is likely….
  10. There is no pedestrian path on this side of street – i.e. no division of the growing space at the front of the property.

What other info is useful? 

Whilst not as critical for the urban block, looking at rainfall data for any block is useful for water capture/audit type calculations (we’ll get to that) as well as understanding maximums for erosion potentials.  As usual the Bureau of Meteorology has interesting info to get you started.  In this case, choosing Swanbourne – Monthly data, Monthly Graphs, Annual Graphs. Similarly there is wind, temp, humidity information in the same search area.  As the wind information is very much influenced by local structures, its good to know the general information, but the specific location’s breezeways can only really be confirmed by the client.

You might also like to have a quick squizz at the council regulations – i.e. the allowance or not of difference animals / birds being kept (bearing in mind if you treat them well and they don’t upset the neighbours – eg noise, smell, etc- then normally the council will not be to fussed, they have better things to worry about!); limits on re-purposing the front verge (away from the water and artificial nutrient hungry lawn); opportunties for influence the type or pruning of the street trees….etc.  All these “potential opportunties” vary from council to council and, whilst it is up to the client to interpret the rules and be responsible for what is put in, recommending an elephant as your main nutrient recycler, chop-and-dropper, compactor and heavy labourer when the council has a statement in their by-laws to the effect of “no elephants may ever be kept on urban blocks” would be a mistake!

So now we know the home we are going to design for, we have an aerial diagram to help you prepare for the visit and we have some initial interpretations based on the diagram, the general area’s climate and even the attitude of the council towards elephants.  Step 1 completed – CHECK!


 

The next step (and blog) – Step 2 – The Prior Planning Prevents P Poor Performance (B) – Mapping the Natural Energies (or using lingo “Preliminary Sector Analysis”)

Introduce the Recurrent (AND HARDEST TO STICK TO) Theme Number 8 – Patterns to Details, Patterns to Details, Patterns to Details.

Along the way we’ll explore more recurrent themes like “Seeing Problems as Opportunities”,  “Look to Add Life Rather than Take it Away”, “Cover the Soil” – as an expansion on “Build the soil”…. Some new, some touched on before, but all with the potential to improve our planning process and get us one step closer to a productive space that helps itself to prosper.

Until then, enjoy.

Permaculture 101 – 1.1 Ethics and Design Principles – An Introduction

In this Permaculture Series, I’ll aim to bring a pretty complex topic back to its bare bones so that we (as the lowest common denominators) can get a simple feel for its merits and whether it’s right for us.

Again, due to the holistic nature of Permaculture (in the words of Dirk Gently, referring to the “conviction that what we are concerned about with here is the interconnectedness of all things” Douglas Adams, 1987), the dissection you are about to witness may offend some viewers.  Please forgive me my sins, we’ll come back to the global view once we have the nitty gritty sussed.

So, surrounded by piles of books (some very thick and text-booky indeed!) and an internet at my fingertips…..here goes….


Permaculture – a term blending the words PERMANENT with AGRICULTURE, and is described by its founder as “the conscious design and maintenance of agriculturally productive ecosystems which have the diversity, stability and resilience of natural ecosystems.  It is the harmonious integration of landscape and people providing their food, energy, shelter and other material and non-material needs in a sustainable way.” (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)

Science has been described as evolving from seek to (a) name things, (b) categorise them, (c) determine how they work and then onto (d) what they can do for us?  A key next step, not only in Permaculture thinking, but in many areas, is investigating how things work together, influence each other and ultimately result in co-operation or competition.  Seeking co-operation within a design leads to energy expended within the design (or captured from an external influence on the design), being utilised in a common direction rather than depleted by opposing the forces. (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)  I.e. aiming to have everything pulling in the same direction.

Whilst Permaculture represents a garden/home/lifestyle integrated design, there are some underlying ethics and principals which are much less visual to the novice (us) in a design, but which feedback to the Prime Directive of Permaculture – “The only ethical decision is to take responsibility for our own existence and that of our children.”

We reckon that this sentiment of Permaculture is best captured for “kids” of any age in the immortal words of Theodor Seuss Geisel (Source: The Lorax, Dr Seuss, 1971):

lorax

To back up this directive, Permaculture (as a balcony, courtyard, backyard and farm design and lifestyle integration opportunity) is based on the following ethical basis: (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)

  1. Care of the Earth – Provision for all life systems to continue and multiply.
  2. Care of People – Provision for people to access those resources necessary to their existence – this is acknowledged as an extension of (1) in that we are a life system
  3. Setting Limits to Population and Consumption – By governing our own needs, we can set resources aside to further the above principles.”   – this is again acknowledged is an extension of (1).

In essence, we are addressing the idea of a permanent agricultural system that meets the needs of all life systems contained within it – i.e. the energy requirements of the system to achieve this are provided by that system.

Ahhhhaaa, the creation a perpetual motion machine, I hear you say!  But, no, there is no claim of providing the epitomy of the Law of Conservation of Energy….. but perhaps the glimpse of a metaphorical holy grail.  The sun will not burn for ever (although it is perhaps the closest we have to a perpetual energy source!), the rain will not deliver water every day, the breeze/wind/gale will not be consistent and we will all grow older – curses.  But…. to design a system to maximise the natural energy that falls on, blows through, crawls in, or causes our muscles to ache the next day within our small plot of existence, is to replace the energy which is lost or unable to be kept within our system (e.g. nature grows the seed, we eat the seed and then poop in the toilet and send that off to the ocean….). Hand in hand with this is the minimisation of this lost or waste energy to even out the balance….

As a (very central!) aside, the Heenan Doherty family operating out of New South Wales, have been redefining the Permaculture concept, by converting the language from sustainable (in the sense of maintaining the status quo, lacking the ambition to improve) to regenerative, while at the same time acknowledging that we (globally) are currently in a state well short of sustainable, which they have labelled atrophy.  While not changing the intent of the Permaculture concept, this provides perhaps a better definition of the goal posts.  Darren Doherty has developed the Regrarian Platform process under the principles of Permaculture, for the development of regenerative agriculture systems – go wild on google learning about this one (or we might together one day in the future)!  They’re an amazing family and one whose philosophies strike the right chord with many.

DohertyI digress again! On with the Principles.


Many dedicated and inspirational people have explained the Principles of Permaculture as it rings true with them and the following schematic looks at the range for you to investigate as you wish.  (Source with technical issues…)

All permaculture Principles - Mindmap - Appleseed Permaculture

To just pick one (keeping things simple!) that I might be able to both interrogate piece meal and pull back together when we get onto thinking about design, I’m going to have a look at David Holmgren’s list.  I’m not saying its the best, nor that any one of them should be held up as the definitive guide (not even the Guru is qualified to do that!), but like all things in Permaculture…. it depends.  If what I look at does not make sense to you, please don’t be put off.  Have a look at the others, or create your moulding of the above list. (Deep Green Permaculture – (from Victoria) provides a look at Bill Mollison’s approach and is both a great read and resource – thank you!).

As a designer, I am reliably informed, rather than Holmgren’s principles being a recipe to creating the “perfect design”, (of course, that does not exist as it would depend…..I’ll edit out the subsequent lengthy conversation!) they become the checklist to confirm your thought process through the design will achieve the aims of Permaculture as we defined it above. Fear not, I’m determined to find that illusive recipe to help us all feel like we have a Permacultural Plan of Attack (the PPA as I like to call it).   But for now, lets get back to our “checklist”.

Always good to start with a picture….(Quoted everywhere without source, but the likely Original Location)

Principals

Please note that, once again, I am interpreting the information in an abbreviated form, selecting and defining the chunks so that it makes sense to me.  For more (and, importantly, the original) information directly from David Holmgren’s keyboard head here or to: Permaculture Principles & Pathways Beyond Sustainability; Holmgren, D.; 2002 (he has a significant volume in his writing which looks at culture and society under the principles, which I have rudely ignored…. Soil implications only for me! I’ve had trouble enough digesting that…. the info, not the soil).  Please note that all the below information has been paraphrased from these sources unless an alternate source has been referred to or I have put my thoughts in italics.  So, the Soil Hugger version:

ITEMS 1 to 6: Bottom-up perspective (i.e. single items, elements, organisms)

1. Observe and Interact – the ability of an individual to “observe and interpret both traditional and modern methods of land use, is a powerful tool in evolving new and more appropriate systems”  Observation and interaction of the designer within the system (and assisting its carer to do the same) enables the development of a design which builds the relationship between nature and people. Consciously catering for the continuous evolving of this relationship and the design, can maintain the carer’s inspiration and ensure the system meets the needs of all with co-operative energy efficiency. I.e. Moving away from the sentiment of “What can I get from this land, or person?” and more towards “What does this person or land have to give if I co-operate with them?”  (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)

Example: Water runs from high to low – looking for run off patterns, talking to “locals” about rainfall trends and experience of run off / flooding issues, nutrients get washed from high to low so you may see plants flourishing at low points.  This leads onto: how do we reduce the run off, where should be put our chooks (tip…. at the top!), how much water might we expect to collect (is a water tank worth while?)…. should the time be available (luxury!!!), seasonal observation prior to design would be ideal, but indicators are evident to the keen observer who pays attention to the details on a single visit as well as the complimentary interactions with the owner/locals.

Below is just a pretty picture of water run off from Source, interestingly though we’ll refer to this later when it comes to a detailed study of patterns…. the interconnectedness of all things…. but hopefully it makes reading these notes a little less dry!  If you zoom in on this picture to various magnifications, you will see the same general patter repeated in a smaller scale such that the picture looks pretty similar to this – reminiscent of fractal patterns.

A key saying associated with this principle is “the problem is the solution“. Things are not always the way they appear, the negative aspect we see may be coupled with a compensating positive or actually be harnessed in a way to make it a positive feature for the existing system.  Weeds are a prime example – many seek to eradicate them, when they can be seen as nature covering bare soil (to limit temp fluctuations, to shelter micro-colonies), preparing the soil for less hardy species (by drawing nutrients to the topsoil as they perish, compost and replace themselves), a source of high nutrition in salad (and for livestock) and often the most water wise kick start to a barren landscape.

The observations you make and the interpretations you place upon them, should be constructed with the next 11 principles in mind.  This will ensure that our design does not suppress potential gains for our system, before they have the opportunity to demonstrate their true function.  (“protracted and thoughtful observation rather than protracted and thoughtless labour” B. Mollison)

2. Catch and Store Energy –  Pretty self explanatory, but the extent of the energy sources is a valuable list to review.  There are all sorts of discussions about fossil fuels, but among other drawbacks, its obviously not delivered cheaply to our garden! The more obvious sources to consider are Sun (solar), Wind (turbine) and Runoff water flows (hydro-electric, irrigation). There are also the “wasted resources from agricultural, industrial and commercial activities” (biomass, heat, discarded by-products, containers, reuseable construction materials…).

Capture and Storage of the energy can be as simple as fertile soil with high humus content, productive perennial systems to the more complex of the solar passive homes.  All life is dependent on the solar energy collected by plants.  Solar energy also dictates the weather and hence the other forms of renewable energy.  Water is required for the plants to photosynthesise, so this too is a stored energy.  The banking of macro-nutrients, micro-nutrients and carbon in the soil is also seen as a captured future energy source.  A non-regenerative approach to these minerals will leads to the repeated need to import energy (external fertility).  The crop’s seed is a critical energy storage device, especially in annual crops.  The list goes on…

Example: If we consider the solar energy required by our plants, we need to assess sun angles in our design and identify in what season we can deliver the appropriate amount of sunlight to enable selected productive plants to thrive – to produce food, to attract insects, to prevent the ground from getting too hot and damaging the soil life, etc.  We have a large front verge which faces north – in winter this zone harvests huge amounts of sunlight to produce veges, herbs and microscope-able creatures for us.  As the garden consists mainly of wicking beds, the rain falling in winter is captured, as are the nutrients which might otherwise have been washed out of the “resident free draining soil”.  In summer, this area gets baked, so we depend on our hardier chaps to keep the soil covered and the area as cool as possible on limited water supplies.  The remainder of the front area is planted with natives (and the deciduous trees) which slow down in winter, but attract birds and insects to the garden all year round.  They don’t complain about the limited water and hot conditions of our Perth Summers as well as protecting the ground and north facing walls below the reach of the eves.

3. Obtain a Yield –  In Principle 2 we looked at capturing and storing energy for future use, now we need to use some of that energy to meet today’s needs. All life obtains a yield from the environment around them, without which the life would cease – Darwinism at its core.

“Without immediate and truly useful yields, whatever we design and develop will tend to wither while elements that do generate immediate yield will proliferate.”  This statement can be applied to the withering of an individual plant unable to photosynthesis adequately in a shady spot, a business unable to compete in the market, or a clients enthusiasm with a new design concept.  The yield encourages, sustains and can develop replication in and expansion of the system.

Example: In the essence of needs : A truer word has not been spoken than “you can’t work on an empty stomach.”  But we also, in a less “needs based” and more “wants based” society…. we must have short term encouragement to persist with anything.  If the first product of a garden design is a magnificent apple tree producing its first harvest three-five years down the track, then this principle has not been achieved.  If nitrogen fixing planting is done to improve the soil (in preparation for that gorgeous fruit tree forest!) in one area, then in another position, a yield for the household will be required in the short term to keep the attention on the garden as a whole – i.e. planting some seasonal, quick and prolific food producers.  Alternately this can be viewed on a larger scale, one person has a visibly productive garden and others see it…. a portion of those look to start their own garden – getting tips off the first gardener, but later swapping seeds perhaps with the first, but also with the next friend who saw value in the second person’s garden….. and so the web expands.  Each of these examples looks at the need to supply a yield to enable the continued production.

4. Self-Regulate; Accept Feedback – In Principle 3 we talked about a yield, which is a type of positive feedback (we will start seeing more and more cross over of the principles as we proceed).  In nature we see feedback both curb and encourage growth and behaviour.  Adaptations stemming from initial or local feedback is seen through the implementation of self-regulation to “pre-empt and avoid the harsher consequence of external negative feedback” which may be incurred in the future.  Negative feed back can be viewed as the “brakes that prevent the system falling into holes of scarcity and instability from overuse or misuse of energy”.    Positive feedback is described as the accelerator, pushing the system towards more efficient harvesting of the freely available energy sources.  The theory here is, that if we seek to better understand how feedback works in nature, “we can design systems that are more self-regulating, thus reducing the work involved in repeated and harsh corrective management”.  Additionally the more self regulating and self reliant a system and its parts, the more robust it is to disturbances.

Example: Predators and pests work to meet their needs to survive, effectively controlling and regulating growth and populations. Let’s call this a feedback example. High pest populations draw in predators, but as the pests reduce so do the predators.  Back to the balance of supply and demand which in the garden world fluctuates with climate conditions, which impact the micro-climates (evolving within the garden) differently both over time and across the garden.  High pest numbers in one area may bring in the predators…as the numbers of pests in this first area drops, the predators prevent the infestation in an alternate area as they are forced to look farther afield for food. As we looked into with aphids, this is a feedback loop we can work with.  A familiar example for self regulation could be the clown fish which lives is a very structured society of one dominant female (the largest), one dominant male (second largest) and an array (up to 4) smaller non-breeding males.  Should the female of a society (within a single sea anemone) die, then the dominant male grows and becomes female, with the largest of the non-breeders becoming mature to fill the vacated position. Or more simply (and commonly) a high population with a limited food bank will typically reduce female fertility as nutrition falls.  This reduces the group’s reproduction capacity, population and consumption leading to an increased food availability per individual…. assuming food sources have not been irreparably damaged.

5. Use and Value Renewables – David defines renewables as resources “which are renewed or replaced by natural processes over reasonable periods without the need for major non-renewable inputs.”  A Permaculture design should seek to make the optimum use of renewable resources in order to meet the other principles.  The use of renewable resources can be categorised as consuming that resource (using the wood from a tree, “selling the shares”) versus non-consuming (the shade/shelter of the tree – for us or perhaps more delicate plants, “living off the dividends”).  The first requires a harvesting energy and removes the impact of the resource on other elements for a period.  The second requires no energy expenditure and is termed a passive function or service which does not change the impact the resource has on the existing elements. Utilising the renewable resources available in the best, non-consuming way is a design strategy employed in Permaculture.  Each resource has multiple products and hence consumption of that resource deprives the system of the other products (in the case of out tree example – capturing solar energy and CO2, supplying micro-climates above and below ground ….). The two questions which should be asked when reviewing this principle as part of our “checklist” should be (1) have we made the best use of that the renewable resources available can offer; and (2) is the use “within the renewable limits of the resource”?

Example: Apart from the tree example – integrating animals into the landscape – chooks (collecting eggs and fertiliser versus eating the chook), working dogs (sheep dogs rather than motor bikes), etc; composting (using microbial services); edible weeds as a high nutrient source (consumed, but short replacement period); yabbies in dams fed by water runoff bringing nutrients, similarly fish in ponds aerated by aquatic plants and fed by run-off, insects dropping in, algae + other plant matter and larvae hatching (great for keeping the mozzies at bay); the list goes on, but you get the idea.

6. Produce No Waste –“Waste not, want not” – “This principle brings together traditional values of frugality and care for material goods, the modern concern about pollution, and the more radical perspective that sees wastes as resources and opportunities.” As a fabulous mind once stated (well actually he’s said it many times!) “there’s no such thing as waste…. only stuff in the wrong place…. opportunity to be embraced.” (Charlie McGhee website, video).  System design needs to consider the use of one components output and/or byproducts as a support for the growth of another component – this prevents the depletion of energy in the system which occurs when “waste” product is removed and disposed of (i.e. Principle 2).

Example: The most obvious example is that seen in a forest, where old leaves are shed and fall as waste products to the ground.  In an urban garden, we might pick them up and put them out for a green waste collection…. However, of all that work we did to condition our soil, build our garden food webs and make nutrients available to our solar harvesting plant, a portion of the total energy exits our system with the dead leaves.  In the forest (and to be honest we are vehemently protective of anyone trying to take away our precious green “waste”, so in our garden too!) the leaves are broken down by the soil macro and micro organisms into humus and the accessible nutrients are made available to the plants’ root system.

When introducing non-organic products or other external feeds of energy into our household or garden, the constantly evolving saying of “refuse, reduce, reuse, repair, re-purpose or recycle” proves a valuable mantra.  When purchasing for ourselves or designing for someone else’s garden, the world’s “waste products” (where the fossil fuels have already been expended to create it) are a great comodity – e.g. wicking beds – do we purchase a bed or can we use food barrels, old baths, etc.  In our climate, water should also be studied and designed for to prevent it becoming a waste stream where-ever possible.

ITEMS 7 to 12: Top-down perspective (i.e. broader patterns, relationships, co-operation) (Yep, the source is still: Permaculture Principles & Pathways Beyond Sustainability; Holmgren, D.; 2002)

7. Design from Pattern to Detail –  Now we start to get technical…. The ability to recognise spacial (across a space) and temporal (over time) patterns in nature enable us to make sense of what is happening and of converting/capitalising on the pattern within a different context or size of system.  “Complex systems that work tend to evolve from simple systems that work, so finding the appropriate pattern for that design is more important than understanding the details of the elements in the system.”  This topic is at the core of Permaculture Design and should be a whole blog (if not textbook) in itself.  So I will promise to come back to it and do it the justice we deserve, but the exploration of one very important example should at least help us understand where this principle fits within the whole.

Example 1: Forest Patterns –  One type of plant grown in the same location year in year out, creates individual mineral deficiencies in the soil, poorer soil life diversity (and every ailment that comes with that!) and ultimately the need for the importation of fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides to correct the imbalance (which nature is trying to do with the weeds and pests!).  No natural landscape on earth operates in this manner, but conventional agriculture does just that. 

Nature does not have “weeds” and it does not do “weeding”.  Weeds are natures pioneers they are deliberately prolific, opportunistic, vigorous and short life cycled.  They are the first plant species to move into a damaged area of soil to ‘fix’ it for more complicated, sensitive plants and eventual succession to forests.  Shallow mat rooted weeds are designed perfectly for bare soil stabilization and the shading bare ground.  They stop the top soil blowing or washing away, reduce the temperature extremes and allow time for deep rooted weeds and other dynamic accumulators to bring up minerals and trace elements deficient in the top soil (initial germination and growing zone). Once a few generations of weeds have grown, seeded, died, composted and provided habitat for an accumulating little ecosystem, the more advanced but sensitive plants can start to germinate. Various plants then develop to perform various functions (e.g. nitrogen fixing trees) which in combination with each other and the animalia, build up the soils (both in minerals, carbon harvesting (leaf litter, roots), water holding capacity….) to then support even larger trees.  The forest ends up with multiple layers (canopy / understory, low tree layer / mid-story, shrub / small shrub / herbaceous / understory, ground covers, root dominant plants, climbing plants and fungi ) all with their respective function. We can draw on this pattern in design, by looking for shade zones already existing for the canopy to protect our sensitive plants or by mulching and planting nitrogen fixers in advance of our fruit trees. 

As well as Sun/shade patterns across a garden across the seasons, attention to this patterning of plant purpose and potential structure seems to be up near the top of the list for the DIY Permaculture design tips and tricks. 

We’ll come back to this – and have a lot of fun at a later date (plant-nerdy as it might be) – as every design I see created, has these layers defined and their implementation phased through time depending on the starting point. This principle also covers zones, sectors, slopes etc

seattle park2 (Source – but these diagrams are everywhere.)

Water flow  and the erosional scars it creates on the landscape can be seen as a pattern also, see the patterns in the above photo. So much in nature follows fractal patterns from massive river systems to pineapples and crystals structures to our blood circulation system…. fun for a future blog: Patterns – how to recognise and employ them to help a system meet its needs.

8. Integrate – Integrate rather than segregate. The “purpose of a function and self regulating design (Principle 4 – Self-Regulate; Accept Feedback!) is to place elements in such a way that each serves the needs and accepts the products of other elements (Principle 6 – Produce No Waste + 7 – Design from Pattern to Detail!).” (Permaculture, A Practical Guide to a Sustainable Future; Mollison, B.; 1990)  Being aware of the relationships and the relative importance of them enables the integration of the elements for mutual benefit.  It is important to remember that (a) every element performs several functions and (b) every important function is supported by several elements – getting the elements to pull in the same direction to optimise the functions throughout the design reflects back into our earlier reference to co-operation.

Example: Relationships within the ecology can be split into several groups, the main being:

  1. Predatory relationship – one group benefits from the death of the other – the predator impacts the prey population, typically removing the weak or sick, but is dependent on  healthy prey to maintain the renewable food source. The rabbit / fox relationship.
  2. Parasitic relationship – lifeforms feeding off and weakening the larger, longer living host, but often also with the ability of moving onto the next host. Aphids would fit in nicely here.
  3. Competitive relationship – where common needs lead to a struggle (in growth or behaviour) for inputs to meet those needs.  This is often between individuals of the same species, but also between species – parrots and farmers for instance with a fruit tree!
  4. Avoidance relationship – where the need for the same resources is overcome by the two elements either specialising or adapting behaviour to share what is available – eg forests containing trees with different root types (shallow versus deep) can grow more densely than those competing in the same horizon (level in the soil profiles).
  5. Mutualism relationship – multiple organisms with different needs, but where the process of meeting those needs provides benefit to all. Rainforest trees shading, cooling and maintaining moisture levels in the understorey for those resident plants who further improve the decomposing environment to rapicly return the leaf litter to accessible nutrients for both.
  6. Symbiotic relationship – where the two become dependent on each other for survival – i.e. lichen, N2 fixing bacteria on the roots of legumes.

9. Use Small, Slow Solutions – “systems should be designed to perform functions at the smallest scale that is practical and energy-efficient for that function” and speed in the short term does not translate to better, sustained outcomes for the long term.  Now this one got me a little muddled, so I’m going to explain it by a list of ideas followed by examples….

  • small (low capital spend and limited effort) solutions to achieve a function mean that if you’re heading down the wrong track, or just simply change your mind, then the lost money and effort is not substantial.  The bigger they are, the harder they fall.  For example, a recycled brick border to the garden bed surrounded by a mulched path rather than a rendered neatly finished limestone with a cemented path…. say the garden bed is too exposed (because you forgot to look for patterns and observe the system prior to planting…. we all make mistakes – “failure is useful as long as we learn from it”) and you find you require a deciduous tree to protect the bed from the summer midday sun.  To fit the tree you need more space – it’s much easier and costs less time, energy and money to move the mulch section, expand the bricks and throw in some more soil from somewhere else in the garden.
  • small changes – allows observation to act on less variables to better understand the influence a change is having and whether the modification being implements is benefiting the system as a whole, or just addressing the “problem” observed without acknowledgement of the effect on the other elements.
  • slow changes generally result in the building up of the system for long term self reliance. E.g. “The fast response of crops to soluble fertilisers is often short lived. Manures, compost and natural rock minerals generally provide more sustained and balanced plant nutrition. A good result from a little fertilizer does not mean better results from more.”  Repeated applications of “off-plot” fertiliser and a failure to build up the soil condition leads to a dependence on an external energy sources.  (combined with Principle 2 – Catch and store energy and 8 Integrate) Slow and sure wins the race.
  • approaching change in a slow well planned manner – Planting a nitrogen fixing plant in the first year and a small mango in the second or third year will do better than buying a bigger mango in the first year when it comes to financial cost, sustained yield and a means to learn about the location (soil building, sun angles, space functionality, lower story planting can commence etc).

10. Use and Value Diversity – “Diversity needs to be seen as a result of the balance and tension in nature between variety and possibility on the one hand, and productivity and power on the other.” “Diversity provides alternative pathways for essential ecosystem functions in the face of changing conditions” leading to greater stability and resilience to external change.

The agricultural convention of monoculture farming is now recognised as a significant contributor to the crops vulnerability to disease and pests, leading to the need for the widespread use of toxic chemicals and system bulk energy import to control them.   The use of many plant varieties and crop rotation (polycultures) enables the balancing of soil nutrient use, self-regulating predator/pest relationships, and sustained production through seasonal changes.  The review of any forest will reveal the natural evolution towards polycultures.

Structural diversity through different root and canopy structures enables the shared harvesting of soil nutrients and solar energy throughout a daily and seasonal cycle.  Genetic diversity is reflected in adaptation to new conditions or strengthening of a species to overcome a population threat, and is seen across regions and time.  Some plant varieties are better suited to soil and climatic conditions…. when Perth climatic conditions were noted as Mediterranean during our early settlement, the import of crops from that region failed to thrive due to the different soil conditions….until they found Mediterranean locations with the same soil pH.

Consideration of the diversity available and required for a stable, water wise, energy cycling and self-regulating system forms a critical item in the designs which, in Perth, must evolve in poor starting soils and water limited conditions.

11. Use Edges; Value the Margin – This is another principle at the core of Permaculture Design and worthy of a whole blog (if not textbook) in itself.  In the simplistic sense, it is the edges that enable the ecosystem to harvest the best of two worlds rather than just one.  There is the pure forest ecosystem, the pure field ecosystem and then there is the interface which covers the band between the two pure areas.  The edge of a forest that opens out onto a field has the shade, leaf litter etc, but with sun for a period of the day for smaller plants thriving on solar energy rather than below the canopy, obvious positioning for advertising for bees and easy access / cover for birds and other wildlife.  The field crops get all the above but perhaps most important of all some nice, high humus soil if they reach far enough.  In essence at an edge, you get biodiversity time three (Principle 10).

The edge of any water source also provides a massive opportunity for plants and animals to reap the rewards of both habitats.

On a smaller scale, the human lung has a structure to maximise edges to produce maximum air/blood membrane interface for efficiency (using fractal patterns! Principle 7).  Similarly plant roots have little volume, but large surface area to enable maximum absorption of water and nutrients to meet its needs.  This area around the roots, rhizosphere, we have described before and it typically has a higher concentration of micro-organisms operating in co-operatives and in a complexly integrated manner.

Soil improvement activities work on increasing the depth of the topsoil in an effort to “widen that edge” perhaps the most important edge we have.  Its all happening at the edges!

With respect to the marginal reference, it is important to realise that in the good times, food is abundant, we have meet our wants as well as our needs, but what happens when times are not good – the depression (large scale) or (first world issue!) the electricity goes off after a big storm or there is an incident at the plant supplying gas to a major city…..  There are hardy foods, old school trades and lost traditions which have been marginalised due to the ease of acquisition of foods and products that we are conditioned to expect from our local big chain supermarket.

No, I’m not wearing my foil hat, but looking to the items cast aside or marginalised might just be the way to create a low energy, co-operative ecosystem design in an environment where water is scarce, but sun is abundant.  Interestingly, while I hate to be a slave to fashion, there appears to be a movement evolving (a healthy shift) bringing such things as edible weeds, various teas (nettles, lemon verbina etc), bush tucker and many other opportunities (for the design to weave into a design) because they are now “officially fashionable”.  Many of these are far better suited to our climate and ethics than the lettuce (watered heavily, transported from the country then sold by a big chain supermarket with little return to the farmer and in turn earth), or the nectarine in winter (imported from the USA because it is demanded but not in season here).

12. Creatively Use and Respond to Change – This principle has two angles. “Designing to (a) make use of change in a deliberate and co-operative way, and (b) creatively responding or adapting to large-scale system change which is beyond our control or influence….Permaculture is about the durability of natural living systems and human culture, but this durability paradoxically depends in large measure on flexibility and change.”

Part (a) describes how a knowledge of the behaviours which lead to a positive or negative change and hence how to ensure the other principles are met with the changes we invoke.  As mentioned previously, the planting of nitrogen fixing plants for soil improvement, shade, etc in preparation for the slower growing fruit trees exemplifies using the knowledge of change. Conditioning of the soil early in a design whilst having quick win crops to meed the “Obtain a Yield” principle represents an understanding of the use of change in keeping a client’s interest in the whole design implementation process.

Part (b) is captured in the philosophy of the below picture:

When a change beyond our control comes through, it needs to be examined for opportunities.  This is exemplified by the two story triplex built both on the east and south sides of our block, coupled with the existing double story on our west side….. the area where the buildings meet in the south east corner of has been set aside as a low wind area where the bananas do okay.  Banner grass stretches almost half way up the second story of the back place and the huge bottle brush next to it, means that greenery dominates the outlook.  Due to the flexible nature of the garden structure, new areas of shade can be used for alternate plant species or our other trees were more harshly pruned to compensate.  Best of all, through an arrangement with the neighbours, we acquired significant volumes of long term cared for topsoil to fill many of our wicking beds out the back.

The ability (and need) of the system to moderate the impact of change has been outlined within the other principles.  Where that impact cannot be moderated, alternate strategies are required to capitalise on the positives of the change and to facilitate the adaption of the ecosystem towards the optimum (energy) new stable mode of operation.


Well I did not make it under 5000 words (yet again!), but congrats for sticking it out.  Hopefully it was segregated enough that you could skip over the bits that did not strike a chord with you.  To make us feel better (after exploring all those examples), I will add in closing a quoted from Bill Mollison: “The problems of the world are becoming increasingly complex but the answers remain embarrassingly simple.”

So here we stand armed with our trusty checklist, but with no design to check…. where to from here?  When does it get “simple”?

As a bit of “fun” (Soil nerd version of fun, of course!), some months back, I started to write a book.  It was to be a step-by-step guide to designing a garden on the basis of the Permaculture Principles, but with only limited theory included…. essentially I was re-writing the Permaculture Design Certificate Course Manual into a do-it-yourself guide.  Whilst I am only part way through it, the chapter layout might help guide us through the method of garden / house / lifestyle design on the basis of the above principles.  And, maybe, just maybe, we might create our own “simple” recipe along the way…..

Until next time, I hope you’re enjoying the ride.